City of Joy II: How has Dhaka changed since 2008?

Dhaka is the fastest growing megapolis in the world, growing to become one of the top cities in the world in terms of size.

Two things about dhaka have increased dramatically in the last 8/9 years - wealth and population.

Dhaka, already the wealthiest settlement in Bangladesh, has received so much private sector attention and state facilitation that economic growth of Dhaka constantly remained the same till mid 2000s. It now grows even faster, and despite policies and state investment into outer regions increased dramatically in the last decade, Dhaka has maintains the same wealth ratio against rest of Bangladesh.

You would notice wealth everywhere - new movie theaters, shopping malls, car showrooms, spas and salons, hotels, restaurants and cafes, beautified city, beggar free zones (in fact beggars are now a vanishing breed, who appear in Ramadan to supplement whatever income they have in villages), resorts and clubs, amusement, imported brands, luxury apartment blocks, gated communities, school and university campuses… the list is endless.

There have been hundreds of them coming up since 2008, changing old neighborhoods and the cityscape forever. Many of the dilapidated blocks in the old town now features glass fronted banks and shops, shopping malls and superstores, as well as brand shops of the luxury kind. Many quint little parts of the city (like northern parts of Uttara, western parts of Mirpur etc.) are now busy hubspots with tall modern buildings. Many more 1–3 story buildings have been replaced with 10–12 story buildings, and as a result some of the more tightly built neighborhood streets to become narrow urban canyons.

Even cars, of which there are tens of thousands more than 2008, are not just second-hand Toyotas. From Geely cars to Mercedes cars - the choices are endless. Bicycles have come back, motorcycles are everywhere. More streets have banned rickshaws, while electric rickshaws are plying all over the periphery of the city. Black/blue cabs have almost vanished. Yellow cabs are run only by two companies. Uber and car rentals have taken over. And, there are way more flyovers. Home delivery and superstores now covers one third of Dhaka, a 100 times increase in a decade.

With all the wealth visible one would expect poverty to become negligible. It didn’t. Because, millions and millions of climate refugees escaping floods, cyclones, droughts and what not have arrived in Dhaka in the last decade, way more than any time in history. 40% of them live in informal shelters, 80% of them are engaged in informal economic activity. Life is tough for them. But, they still share the general optimism that a flourishing economy brings. Housemaids, once a common feature of every household, and porters, a common feature for almost every public place are dwindling fast in numbers, as neither are consistent with the status they seek.

Informal business is the key. 45% of Dhaka economy is still these micro-enterprises, though the sectors are often different from 2008. Once a ubiquitous feature of every street corner, the common cigarette and candy sellers are becoming increasingly rare, while the once popular modes of transport - the “tempo” or the “hauler” are also vanishing.

This tremendous building boom and population increase has taken toll on the infrastructure. Newer neighborhoods are not getting piped gas, and older neighborhoods are suffering from chronic shortage of water. Safety and security is also lower than before, for four reasons - (a) government affiliated organizations and persons; (b) diverting law enforcement resources to fight terrorism; (c) a corrupt police empowered by extra-judicial power, while the judiciary remains low priority; and (d) extra population that makes governance almost impossible. This has led to a serious decrease in outdoor events like concerts and fairs, as well as serious discouragement of celebrations like international new year and baul festivals.